Last train blues

By Jesse Veverka

I just got back from a trip to New York and Seoul, both huge cities with extensive train systems and world-class nightlife. Whenever I visit those places and go out late with friends, I never worry about getting home. If it’s too far to walk and we can’t catch a train or a bus, there are always taxis.

But, of course, when I am back in Tokyo, it’s a different situation entirely. The city’s vast area coupled with its expensive taxis mean that either I make sure I get that elusive last train home or I plan on spending the night out.

I say “elusive” because whenever I try to rely on catching the last train, I always seem to miss it. Tokyo’s combined train and subway system is, after all, the most extensive metropolitan railway in the world, and because each station’s last train is at a different time, the exact timing and route can be as unique as some of the otaku walking around Akihabara.

Even if you make the train, it’s pretty much guaranteed to be packed. Watching exasperated platform attendants trying to squeeze way too many people onto a car in Shibuya after the doors haven’t been able to close for the tenth time because some guy’s briefcase just won’t quite fit is quite humorous — unless, of course, you yourself are also trying to get on that train.

All of this makes me wonder: why is there even a last train to begin with? Why not run the system continuously?

No doubt economics is an issue — trains are expensive to operate, and in the wee hours, when ridership is minimal, JR and other lines might lose money on their routes. But if that’s the case, why not just do what NYC does and reshuffle the system so that the central lines with the highest ridership remain in operation? Aside from late-night revelers, there are plenty of people who work night shifts — nurses, police, shopkeepers, airport workers, financial traders, and so on. In that way, providing 24-hour service would actually economically support productive activity. Even if the train company didn’t make a lot of money, leaving some lines open would seem to be of overall benefit to society. As it is, JR already runs not-so-profitable daytime routes in some regions just for this very reason.

But like beauty, “social benefits” are a function of one’s perception. I spoke to several of my Japanese friends about it, and was surprised by their consensus that the last-train system is actually a good thing for social order. As the thinking goes, by creating a functional curfew, the last train forces society’s most valued members — salarymen, students and single women — to go home by a certain time. In other words, the last train is a statement on national morality.

Hmm. For a country where social respect is dependent on how early one takes out the garbage, I can see a certain logic in this argument. But what about the social vices that are encouraged, at least in part, by the existence of the last-train system? What about the all-night bars where the salarymen who didn’t make the last train can drink till dawn? What about the internet cafes where students can read manga while getting tweaked-out on caffeine and cigarettes, only catching a few hours of fitful sleep because they couldn’t make it home? And don’t even get me started on the love hotels.

You see, I have increasingly come to believe that, as odd as it sounds, some people actually like “missing” the last train because it gives them an excuse to stay out. Perhaps this is, at least inadvertently, another one of those Japanese social devices, often difficult for Westerners to understand, that serves to create a “face-saving” out for otherwise unacceptable behavior: “The last train made me do it!”

On the other hand, maybe it really is just all about the money. Let’s say that the last train system were to be abolished. What would happen to all the bars, internet cafes and love hotels? Their business would probably fall off a cliff. I don’t know about Japan, but at least in special-interest-based America, you could bet the “love hotel lobby” would be doing their best to keep JR from running all night. The cynical side of me wonders if something similar is afoot here.

Maybe those of us who really want to see the enactment of a 24-hour system should form our own group to promote all-night trains as the morally and economically sensible thing to do. For example, we could propose a 50% surcharge on fares after midnight and use the proceeds for a socially responsible cause, like education. Now all we need is a clever name for our lobby.

Jesse Veverka is a film producer and co-founder of Veverka Bros Productions (www.veverkabros.com), with offices in Yokohama and Ithaca, NY.

This commentary originally appeared in Metropolis magazine (www.metropolis.co.jp).

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Latest 15 of 52 Total Comments Show All

BurakuminDes at 09:56 PM JST - 26th October

I can see the pros and cons of running the night trains. I'd be prepared to pay a premium for a once-an-hour limited service.

However, I love the hilarious "We must stop the trains at midnight to keep social order" argument!

I spoke to several of my Japanese friends about it, and was surprised by their consensus that the last-train system is actually a good thing for social order. As the thinking goes, by creating a functional curfew, the last train forces society’s most valued members — salarymen, students and single women — to go home by a certain time. In other words, the last train is a statement on national morality.

I'd love to meet the people who have this opinion, they sound like a barrel of fun. NOT! Hey, lets just shut down all bars, clubs, restaurants, love hotels, 7-11s etc TO MAINTAIN THE SOCIAL ORDER! Must be in bed by midnight, you know. They're havin' a laugh!
DenDon at 11:51 PM JST - 26th October

this guys last article for metropolis, his attempt to film in Yasukuni was also an entertaining read
PepinGalarga at 12:04 AM JST - 27th October

At least the Yamanote should run 24 hours. That would be a real money saver since 14 million people live within 5,000Yen cab ride from it. Otherwise it could be anywhere from 10,000 to 25,000 per ride.

To be on the fair side, the last trains are running later every time, and the first trains earlier. My last train is out on the move until way past 1:30am, and the first train is just before 5am, so it's only a couple hours downtime.

The only time i miss the last train is beacuse i want to, which supports the other argument in this article...
pawatan at 01:01 AM JST - 27th October

At least the Yamanote should run 24 hours. That would be a real money saver since 14 million people live within 5,000Yen cab ride from it. Otherwise it could be anywhere from 10,000 to 25,000 per ride.

Don't get your math. From what station to what station on the Yamanote by taxi does it cost 20,000 yen? I don't think it would cost 10,000 yen between any two stations.

If they were going to run trains 24 hrs on limited lines, the choices are easy: Chuo/Sobu, Keihin-Tohoku.
aizoyurei at 01:59 AM JST - 27th October

Anything to reduce the number of taxis. Here in Osaka they take up to two lanes parking on the street! The most useless taxi drivers ever I swear. Even in my little town outside the city, the local taxi driver's have to be given directions. Maybe Kansai International wouldn't be in debt(along with JAL) if the people could actually travel to their destinations when they arrive late.
J_rock at 03:35 AM JST - 27th October

"I'm sorry, but I missed my last train. Can I stay at your place?"

That question was the start of many a good night back-in-the-day. If the trains start running all night, they're going to ruin one of the J-girls' best excuses for sleeping over.
blue_monday at 11:05 AM JST - 27th October

Japan is prone to earthquakes, big and small, obviously they need to check the tracks frequently.
pointofview at 11:21 AM JST - 27th October

A 24 hr. subway service in Japan is just too logical. The system has been set and nothing will change.
Hephatsheput at 02:12 PM JST - 27th October

Wow this is ignorant.

Taxi companies.
Yelnats at 03:19 PM JST - 27th October

promote all-night trains as the morally

thing to do. muah. This is not Baptist country honey buns. And we do not need Ithaca morals here either. Go out earlier and get home sooner. I like it for surfing purposes.
PepinGalarga at 10:47 PM JST - 27th October

Pawatan: "otherwise" meaning that if there was NO Yamanote line then on average people would have to pay 10,000-25,000 Yen per taxi ride. I live out in the sticks, so from Shibuya to my station its an easy 25,000Y, but from Ikebukuro its 6,000Y.

A circular line is the most logical when it comes to having only one 24 hour line. That way you cover all corners of Tokyo, including all major shinkansen stations. In terms of maintenance it's the easiest. There's also plenty of redundant track running along that route, so it's easier to run the checks and do the maintenance.
tokyotom at 03:34 AM JST - 28th October

i think it is because they do servicing of the tracks at night as you know Japanese very big on upkeep, much better than western countries who let their infrastructure rot
nigelboy at 03:47 AM JST - 28th October

Maintenance and noise reduction at night are two good reason why JR shouldn't operate 24 hours. Opening the train station 24 hours is going to result in every inch of the stations smelling like urine like NYC.
shinjukuboy at 06:03 PM JST - 28th October

I'm sure if there was money in it, someone would do it. Hey, do I smell a business opportunity?
Yelnats at 09:35 PM JST - 28th October

Electric bikes are the key, except of course if it is raining. cause carrying an umbrella while riding is illegal, and we do not want to do anything illegal do we?