KAMAKURA —

Kamakura’s storied history and picturesque shrines and temples have made it a popular day trip from Tokyo. But if you take into account the beach, a noticeable absence of traffic and an impressive number of health food stores, the former capital city becomes a very appealing long-term retreat from the current one. “We’re only an hour away from Tokyo, but the pace of life is slower here,” says Koji Shundo. “We run on Kamakura time.”

Shundo and his wife, both Kamakura natives, run Café Life Force, a natural food restaurant with a rustic farmhouse interior and an inviting counter bar. All of the ingredients for the seasonal menu (think spinach curry and “ume shiso” pilaf) are sourced from the local farmers’ market, and Shundo’s “no border” approach means that vegetarian and macrobiotic items appear alongside meaty ones.

The multiuse space also hosts occasional, intimate performances by local musicians, and sells a selection of healthy cooking supplies for use at home. Shundo insists that Café Life Force has nothing to do with current trends like LOHAS and Slow Life; rather, his and other like-minded establishments hope to show that a relaxed, community-oriented lifestyle is simply the natural way to do things in Kamakura.

A number of these neighborhood gems appear in the Kamakura Vegetarian Culture Map, a free bilingual guide that’s available at the tourist information desk at Kamakura station. Compiled by a team of locals in collaboration with the Japan Vegetarian Society, the extensive listings are not strictly limited to dining, but also include topics like Zen temple meditation and beach glass recycling. Many of the places mentioned are delightfully off the beaten tourist track, too, and best accessed by bicycle. With that in mind, the map points users to a pair of rental shops, Yamamoto Shokai (1,600 yen/day) and Renta-Cycle Kamakura Nishi-guchi (electric-assist bicycles 2,600 yen/day), both of which are near the station.

A pleasant ride along the coastline takes you to the not-to-be-missed Inamuragasaki Onsen, where the baths resemble cups of steaming coffee. The proprietors, who also run the Sun Dish restaurant next door, are said to have discovered the hot spring waters accidentally while digging a well. The result is an elegant, no-frills bathhouse with a sauna and two rotenburo (one hot and one cold). It’s built on an old bamboo grove, and the sodium carbonate alkaline waters—reputed to be particularly beneficial for skin ailments — are colored by soil enriched by decomposing leaves. Swimsuits and people under 18 are not allowed. Admission to the baths (1,300 yen or 1,500 yen, depending on the season) entitles customers to a 10% discount at Sun Dish. With its wall of picture windows overlooking the ocean, the restaurant is an excellent vantage point for watching the sunset.

● Café Life Force: 2-5-19 Yuigahama, Kamakura. Tel: 0467-25-5359. Open Thu-Tue 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m., closed Wed & 4th Tue. Nearest stn: Kamakura.

● Yamamoto Shokai: 2-2-23 Komachi, Kamakura. Tel: 0467-22-0723. Open Fri-Wed 9 a.m.-7 p.m., closed Thu, 1st & 3rd Wed. Nearest stn: Kamakura.

● Renta-Cycle Kamakura Nishi-guchi: 12-5 Onarimachi, Kamakura. Tel: 0467-61-3822. Open daily 6:30 a.m.-11:30 p.m. Nearest stn: Kamakura (outside west exit). www.rc-kamakura.com

● Inamuragasaki Onsen: 1-16-13 Inamuragasaki, Kamakura. Tel: 0467-22-7199. Open daily 9 a.m.-9 p.m. (last entrance 8 p.m.). Nearest stn: Inamuragasaki (Enoden line).

● Kamakura Vegetarian Culture Map: vegemapkamakura.blogspot.com/

This story originally appeared in Metropolis magazine (www.metropolis.co.jp).

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  ca1ic0cat at 01:35 AM JST - 29th July

  I prefer the Enoshima beach. There is one heck of a soba shop in Kamakura though. Too bad I've forgotten the name but I could find it on foot.

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