Piacere: A taste of cloud nine at Shangri-La Hotel Tokyo

Towering 28 floors above Tokyo Station, Piacere at the Shangri-La Hotel Tokyo, offers diners an “elevated” eating experience that is nothing short of spectacular at this sky-high paradise. One step into the dining hall, and you’ll feel as though you’ve rolled right into the “Roaring Twenties”; namely, the lavish interior exudes Art Deco from its polished wooden parquets up to the high-rise ceiling. It was a challenge to not be distracted by the grand decor of mirrored walls and gilded furnishings — not to mention bouquets of fresh-cut flowers adorning countertops — at this non-conventional Italian eatery. Non-conventional, you ask? Let me recap for you, dish-by-dish, the eight-course dinner (noted as “Grande” on the Grand Menu) that demonstrated Executive Chef Andrea Ferrero’s creative palate and placed the meaning of “Piacere” itself front and center.

The Italian word “piacere” translates to “pleasure” and, indisputably, the dinner managed to stimulate my brain’s pleasure center and take me on an a journey that was equal parts sensory as it was savory. The first pleasure came in the form of a sunset illuminating the skyscrapers of Tokyo’s financial district. The proceeding pleasure was a perfume-like bottle, possessing an uncanny resemblance to Chanel No. 5, that oozed luxury with its intensely golden extra virgin olive oil. As our attentive waiter poured the Lorenzo No. 1 on an inverted plate—bearing resemblance to an upside-down pyramid, our succession of stimulating surprises were just plates away.

A trio of amuse-bouche, playfully presented on modern flatware, set the scene for “fun dining” — a term Chef Ferrero chose to describe his creative take on contemporary Italian dishes served in a fine dining setting. From the parmesan cheese “chawanmushi” (a steamed savory egg custard) artfully assembled in a jagged eggshell to the powdered olive (with a texture reminiscent of an Italian wedding cookie) topped with a dollop of sea urchin, these complimentary appetizers were the epitome of refinement. But the eye-catching, palatable treat was the unique pairing of smoked salmon and strawberries served in a striking wine glass resembling a Bubble Chair. This little bite of delight, as if suspended in mid-air, elevated the concept of appetizers to a whole new level: cloud nine.

Then came the commencement of our eight-course dinner with a medley of aori-ika (a variety of squid best eaten raw), diced aloe, and butter sauteed spinach garnished with frozen yogurt and a white edible flower. This delicate presentation of unlikely ingredients was light in body but did not falter on flavor. The waiter then brought over a platter topped with a dome. After theatrically lifting off the cover, a cloud of smoke seeped out and revealed a beautiful mille-feuille of foie gras with a side of candied apple purée. The buttery crunch of the mille-feuille cookie contrasting with the smooth foie gras mousseline layers made this the most texturally exciting dish. Furthermore, the candied apple purée added another flavor layer to this simple yet stunning second course that didn’t fall short to its playful presentation.

Just as my dining companion and I thought it couldn’t get any better, a slow-cooked, salt-roasted onion risotto perfumed its way to our table. Served on a jet black ceramic plate, mirroring the generous embellishment of caviar, the risotto was the first recognizably Italian dish of the night. This rustic dish, having outgrown its peasant roots to become a trademark of chic Italian cuisine, demonstrated Chef Ferrero’s labor of love with the slow-stirring of rice flavored with the sweat of caramelized onions. The lovely labors that go into Italian cooking are well-understood (and well-executed) by the Italian-born chef who actually comes from a generation of capable cooks—with talent inherited from both sides of the family. And he succeeded to amaze us with a succession of another well-known Italian creation: a quintessentially creamy carbonara.

The spaghettoni alla carbonara, which Chef Ferrero claims is “the most controversial” platter at Piacere, is a celebrated classic turned up a notch. Although listed as a supplementary dish (800 yen), it will literally make your eyes roll back in pleasure. The dry pasta is first boiled in salted water and then cooked to al dente perfection in pecorino cheese — a time-stakingly prep that requires 20 minutes of patience. Now, you may be wondering why carbonara, a pasta recipe seemingly simple enough to make at home, would appear on the restaurant menu of a 5-star hotel. However, Chef Ferrero redefines fine dining with these rustic dishes that reiterate the sumptuous depth of Italian cooking: straight from the heart. The carbonara’s combination of crunchy pork cheeks and grated cured egg yolk — a cutting-edge finishing touch that replaces parmesan cheese —was love at first bite.

Rather than providing restaurant goers with a cerebral eating experience, Piacere places priority on the pleasures of eating. Unmistakably, our dinner grew increasingly delectable, not only in terms of dishes but also in conversation. Once night had fallen over Tokyo, our fifth and sixth courses — a poached lobster and smoked beef—had arrived. Veiled underneath a crisp seaweed chip, the poached lobster revealed its plump tail complemented by two purées (green pea and parsley root) and a vibrant green pool of potato-dill sauce. The oakwood smoked beef was perfectly bite-size (notably, being the second protein of the evening) and flaunted a golden-brown finish to the meat. Its appealing hue was further amplified by thinly sliced black daikon radish, smoked onion purée, and a mahogany capped morel mushroom (which also packed a meaty punch).

The well-attentive pacing and portions of our multi-course dinner allowed us to fully unwind, fine dine, and feel euphorically satiated — but not stuffed. Piacere, however, offers three prix fixe courses on its monthly-changing menu: the four-course Piccolo (12,000 yen), five-course Mezzo (15,000 yen), and eight-course Grande (18,000 yen). For those wishing to double their degustation dining pleasure, a melodious wine pairing is also available to accompany each set menu. The pairing price per course ranges from 5,500 yen to 8,000 yen. Finally, a palate cleanser, made of salted frozen yogurt and marinated strawberries, was served to freshen our perspective because we all know it comes down to the final dish — dessert.

Chef Ferrero’s tiramisu was beyond expectation and far from predictable; undoubtedly, a phrase that practically sums up Piacere’s dining experience from start to finish. This textural tiramisu, layered with bricks of semisweet chocolate, sour cream, and mascarpone cheese, was simply ethereal—making the comedown from Piacere’s taste of cloud nine just as light.

Piacere Shangri-La, Tokyo, Marunouchi Trust Tower, 28th Floor 1-8-3 Marunouchi, Chiyoda Ward, Tokyo Tel: 03-6739-7888

Breakfast: 6:30 a.m. - 10 a.m. (Monday - Friday) 6:30 a.m. - 10:30 a.m. (Saturday, Sunday and Public Holidays) Lunch:
11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. (Monday - Friday) 12 p.m. - 2:30 p.m. (Saturday, Sunday and Public Holidays) Afternoon Tea: 2:30 p.m. - 4:30 p.m. (Saturday, Sunday and Public Holidays) Dinner: 6 p.m. - 9:30 p.m. (Monday - Friday) 6 p.m. - 9 p.m. (Saturday, Sunday and Public Holidays

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