restaurant review

Taste of Buenos Aires at the New York Grill

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By Maki Yasuda

The cuisine at the Park Hyatt Tokyo’s signature New York Grill has recently headed south; that is, literally, as in Latin America. With Chef Federico Heinzmann from Argentina newly appointed to the head of the kitchen, this dazzling 52nd floor dining destination will now be featuring lots of vibrant flavors like lime, fresh chili, cacao and chocolate.

Heinzmann’s philosophy being healthy and simple, his style seems well suited to make the most of fresh Japanese ingredients. For instance, I had as a starter a wonderfully light ceviche of succulent octopus, which was sashimi-fresh and highly fragrant of citrus. Even the usual decadent ingredients are transformed into impressively light and clean dishes; for example, foie gras in the form of a light-as-air mousse, covered in a layer of raw cacao powder with some crunchy “soil” made of various toasted grains and slivers of decopon orange. The unlikely combination of foie gras and cacao went so well together as to feel almost nostalgic.

The chef is also great at making flavorful, wine-worthy dishes with very healthy, light ingredients at center stage. The pan-fried scallops and sea bass and roasted cauliflower puree with citrus reduction and black olive powder might have been healthy enough to be on the menu of a spa restaurant, but nevertheless was deliciously satisfying with a glass of fragrant pinot grigio.

By far, my favorite dish was the wagyu steak with coffee sauce and hot carrot puree. Heinzmann’s creativity and daring really shone, as well as his self-admitted passion for meat. The surprisingly straightforward, intense coffee flavor seemed distinctive to the point of dividing people into either love it or hate it, for which I happily found myself in the former camp. Being from the land of dulce de leche, the chef is also big on desserts. In fact, I was served two; the first was a luxurious parfait, a glass of rich ice cream drowned in salt caramel with of course, some chocolate crunch; and the second, to end the dinner on a remarkably fresh and healthy note, a charming cocoa sorbet and banana puree that seemed like something straight from the rainforest.

Despite it being an early day in the week, the restaurant was packed and the full house created a lively buzz that has always been a part of the New York Grill’s special dining ambience. By the time the moon could be seen high in the sky above the city in the sweeping views from the floor to ceiling windows, and the live jazz sessions started up, the bar side was also full and proved to be an ever-popular place for a stylish, international jet-set crowd. This is a place that if you’re here in Tokyo and you’ve never gone to, you must do so at least once. And when you do go for dinner, stay for a drink. If you’re not going to channel Bill Murray with the whiskey (“Suntory time!”), cocktails are highly recommended. I ended my night with a fresh strawberry mojito.


Federico’s Style – A special four-course dinner to celebrate the hotel’s 20th anniversary will be offered from Friday April 11 to Thursday April 24. Price: 16,000 yen (subject to tax and service charge) *A la carte selections will also be offered

New York Grill 52nd Fl, Park Hyatt Tokyo 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku Shinjuku Ward

Hours Lunch: Daily - 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Dinner: Daily - 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. For reservations, call 03-5323-3458

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Dinner is a bit out of my budget but I've always loved going there for brunch. I hope the new chef doesn't change the menu too much. That hotel will always be indebted to "Lost in Translation."

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