Prominent Kyoto restaurants say no to Michelin

The Michelin guide Kyoto-Osaka 2010 was released on Oct 16. Listed in the book are 147 restaurants, including the high-end Hyotei and Kyoto Kiccho Arashiyama, both of which earned 3 stars.

Another 18 restaurants and two ryokans are on the list, all of which had declined Michelin’s request for a photo shoot. They may have had various reasons for refusing, but their response to Shukan Post’s interview revealed a chasm of an entirely different nature between the restaurants and Michelin.

The owner of Rikichi, awarded 1 star, comments, “Someone from Michelin contacted us for an interview which I declined. And this is what the person said – that so long as we operate a restaurant, it is a given that we should be evaluated. Seriously, who cares? Our only concern is our customers, whether they come from next door, who dine at our restaurant and enjoy our food.”

Another 1 star restaurant that also refused to be interviewed by Michelin went so far to say that they would change their telephone number if they got listed in the guide.

The negative reaction on the part of these restaurants has to do with what is perceived as Michelin’s pompous attitude. According to a gourmet journalist, the representative of Michelin guide Kyoto-Osaka made statements such as “those who refuse our evaluation should choose a different occupation” at a September press conference and went ahead in listing those that expressly declined to be reviewed.

While it may be an honor for restaurants in Europe to be evaluated by Michelin, long-established Kyoto restaurants cherish their distinct cuisine tradition, history and culture. From their perspective, the patron’s review is far more important than what the French think.

The appreciation of such cultural differences in values and culinary professionalism may be too much to ask for.

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Latest 15 of 61 Total Comments Show All

Ah_so at 04:28 PM JST - 23rd October

People who need a book to tell them where to ate are in my view exactly the same as those that look at the popular music charts to decide what music they like..

What a fatuous comment. Would they also be like people who buy a car magazine to help them decide what car to buy? In a country of thousands of restaurants, if you want to know the very best, a guide like this is invaluable.
bdiego at 04:40 AM JST - 24th October

Exactly, one bizarre thing about Japan is there are actually people who take pride in their work to the point that it even takes place over profits and getting the most customers through the door as possible. Similar mentality to monks and martial artists who aren't in it for the money. Obviously the minority, but a whole lot more of them in Japan than any other industrialized country.
bdiego at 04:42 AM JST - 24th October

And as much as I bashed the attitude of Michelin, their recommendations are spot on. They simply exclude good restaurants for the most inane reasons like "Chinese food can't go well with red wine" or "Your restaurant won't whore itself out to the public and give us exclusives"
Psyops at 11:25 AM JST - 24th October

give Michelin the bird
Makkun70 at 01:18 PM JST - 26th October

Gordon Ramsey designs the dishes, the menus, he teaches people how to plate them, and what his standers for the dish are.

And for this we believe he earns the right personally for 3 stars?

What a fatuous comment. Would they also be like people who buy a car magazine to help them decide what car to buy? In a country of thousands of restaurants, if you want to know the very best, a guide like this is invaluable.

They are not really the very best though are they? It's a bit of scam and has been found out as such in France.
Junnama at 01:20 PM JST - 26th October

"They are not really the very best though are they? It's a bit of scam and has been found out as such in France."

It's kind of a given when you say "the best" that we are indeed just talking about someone's opinion, wouldn't you say?
Makkun70 at 01:23 PM JST - 26th October

Very popular, safe and corporate choices most of the time, the obvious choices in a world of choice for people who cannot venture out on their own. These types need a book for everything, so sad...
Junnama at 01:28 PM JST - 26th October

"Very popular, safe and corporate choices most of the time, the obvious choices in a world of choice for people who cannot venture out on their own. These types need a book for everything, so sad..."

I will conceed it is tedious to have to listen to pompous people pretending they know everything about great restaurants and are so superior to the plebes around them...Oh sorry, I'm talking about the Michelin people, of course!
SiouxChef at 04:04 PM JST - 26th October

People who need a book to tell them where to ate are in my view exactly the same as those that look at the popular music charts to decide what music they like..

will conceed it is tedious to have to listen to pompous people pretending they know everything about great restaurants and are so superior to the plebes around them...Oh sorry, I'm talking about the Michelin people, of course!

Don't forget all those people that read movie reviews to decide what to see at the movies and what can wait for DVD. I don't need some pompous movie critic telling me what's good and what's not. I can tell from a title whether or not a film is any good.

Then there are the folks that read product reviews on Amazon before buying something. I mean, just how lame can you get? Like someone who's already bought a product has something to say worth listening to. It's obvious that the truly cool only buy things on impulse.

Wait . . . this doesn't work without underlying jealousy, does it?
bdiego at 06:57 AM JST - 27th October

Wow, do you guys even know the first thing about Michelin stars. They're awarded to restaurants, not people. If someone wants to claim they "got" a Michelin star that's them, not Michelin. Ironic when talking about presumptuous, get your facts right before making an embarrassment.
BigInJapan at 12:13 PM JST - 27th October

I think there is a basic misunderstanding here from many who express opinion. Micheline doesn't say bad critiques, ONLY GOOD ones. So any uptight "I don't care if people like my food" actually sounds more like "Don't even dare to like my food, stupid gaijin."
Hezbella at 12:18 PM JST - 27th October

The proprietors of these establishments clearly want to avoid an influx of guidebook groupies who rely on a snobby rating system to judge food quality, while disrupting the dining experience of regular patrons. With squeals of "oishiiiii" and the inevitable camera phones recording every second of their one time visit, local customers will be driven away, and yet another community will be irreversibly damaged by the crass commercialism of globalization. These restauranteurs understand that once the coveted Michelin star(s) is bestowed to another establishment in subsequent guides, these tourists will have moved on to terrorize another neighborhood eatery. These Kyoto restaurant owners should be commended for their integrity and foresight.
2020hindsight at 02:46 PM JST - 27th October

While it may be an honor for restaurants in Europe to be evaluated by Michelin, long-established Kyoto restaurants cherish their distinct cuisine tradition, history and culture. From their perspective, the patron’s review is far more important than what the French think.

Obviously they don't realise that most of the reviewers are Japanese.
bdiego at 06:50 AM JST - 29th October

Exactly, the last thing I want at a classic Kyoto restaurant are other gaijin who read about it in a guidebook. The same with my favorite hiking trails. Now if some restaurants happen to agree, so be it. Many restaurants prefer regulars over one-timers, that's just their way of doing things and Michelin will never get it. And that's okay Michelin, plenty of wine-centric restaurants for you to review without barging in on the rest.
selph at 08:13 PM JST - 5th November

To hell with Michelin, they have turned so many good places to eat into obnoxiously expensive and self-important "Michelin restaurants". All over the world. Go Kansai go!