By Iain Maloney

Travel Sep. 04, 2009 - 05:33AM JST ( 6 )

HIKONE —

Hikone Castle was built at the end of the civil war period by Naotaka Ii. It stands high on a hill, the focal point of the town, and has done so, untouched by war, natural disaster and attempts to modernize for over 400 years. It looks much like other castles in Japan: ivory white walls, fanned stone defenses, further protected by a double moat. It is one of only four original castles still standing in Japan and, along with Himeji, Inuyama and Matsumoto castles, has been designated a National Treasure.

The castle is 15 minutes from Hikone station, which is one stop from Maibara on the JR Biwako line, easily reachable from Kyoto or Nagoya. The route from the station takes you passed Gokoku Jinja, a shrine dedicated to the memory of those fallen in war. It is a peaceful spot, honoring not only those who died in battle, but also those who suffered at home.

To the north of the castle lies Genkyuen garden and Rakurakuen house. The garden makes for a delightful stroll along winding paths, over wooden bridges and through ancient trees. Rakurakuen is an Edo era house in an idyllic spot, looking out onto the garden and the castle.

For souvenirs and nourishment, head to Yume-kyobashi Castle Road. It was constructed with the aim of recreating the atmosphere of a traditional Japanese town while still providing the modern visitor with all of the conveniences they have come to expect. The 350-meter-long street boasts art and craft shops, restaurants and tea houses. A popular souvenir is an Edo era candle of the kind used to light the city for 500 years. In the Akarikan shop you can even try your hand at making one. It makes a nice change from the Kitty-chan pens and endless boxes of cookies usually on offer.

History buffs gravitate toward the Hikone Castle Museum within the castle grounds. The museum holds pieces made, used and collected by the Ii family over their centuries of rule. Pride of place is given to the Hikone Screen, also a National Treasure. Produced in the early 17th century, the screen depicts life in the pleasure quarters of Kyoto. Fascinating as an object of great beauty in itself and as a record of fashion and lifestyles of the period, it also contains deeper metaphorical meanings which, the museum leaflet claims, “can be understood only by a limited number of well-cultivated viewers.” So there.

In the courtyard at the center of the museum stands an outdoor noh stage. Exquisitely crafted from a light wood, and covered to allow performances in any weather, it would be a wonderful location to watch a noh play.

Also on prominent display is an example of the Ii family’s red lacquered suits of armor. Deep red, as opposed to the more usual black and brown, and worn by all from the lord down to the foot soldiers, it marked them out on the battlefield and advertised their origin to those who stood opposed to them. Known as the Red Devils, samurai under the rule of the Ii family played an integral part in the battles that ended the civil war and raised Tokugawa Ieyasu to the office of shogun, gaining great fame and a fierce reputation. The color of their armor meant that they were the easiest to recognize on the painted screens that depicted the great events of Japanese history, showing that the Ii family understood the benefits of good public relations.

The family remained at the heart of events until 1860 when Ii Naosuke, the last of the lords of Hikone was murdered by anti-shogun and anti-Western rebels. He was deeply involved in the negotiations between the shogunate and the Western diplomats concerning the opening of Japan to foreign trade, and was hacked to death for his efforts.

While Hikone Castle is not as spectacular as Himeji or as imposing as Osaka, the history of the area, the tranquil atmosphere that hangs around the city and the effort made to present it all to visitors without descending into the vulgarity or kitsch that can blight the most beautiful or interesting sightseeing spot makes Hikone a perfect day-trip destination.