By Mark Stone

Travel Aug. 18, 2011 - 06:03AM JST ( 7 )

TOKYO —

The Shonan area, centered around Enoshima along the coast of Sagami Bay, lies just 50 kms southwest of Tokyo. It usually refers to the beach areas around Oiso, Hiratsuka, Chigasaki, Kamakura and Hayama, and pulls in plenty of musicians, artists and wanderers from across Japan, attracted by its laid-back atmosphere.

It also draws plenty of surfers.

The bay’s shape and south-facing location mean that most swells struggle to hit these Shonan beaches with any significant power. Japan’s predominantly easterly swells — which create consistent waves for exposed stretches of Chiba and other sunrise-facing coasts — lose a great deal of their power before hitting the shores.

This certainly doesn’t reduce the number of surfers in the water, though. Long boarding here is a joy. The rush of riding small waves amid the surrounding mountain spectacle is a true wonder.

Though it could be said that these slight waves suit a mellower longboard style, just watching the local shortboarders ripping up peeling inches is also a sight to be appreciated.

When summer comes to Shonan, so do the typhoons. Twenty or 30 super low-pressure systems can surge up from the southwest or southeast and pump swells into the gaping bay. These days are a real joy for board-lovers. The waves can come and go within a matter of hours. Sometimes, a typhoon hanging off the coast to the south will provide constant powerful waves for days.

Summer here is boardshort surfing, sunshine and a thriving beach culture that’s wonderful, wacky and unique. A mélange of freaky day trippers bring their fashion chic to the ocean, mixing it up with the locals beachside all day and on into the evening at the funky “umi-no-ie,” or beach huts, that dot the sand and light up the area with music, dancing and cocktails after the sun sets.

Beyond Enoshima, east past Kamakura, lie numerous stretches of reefs. When the swells prevail, some truly awesome waves can be found breaking in much clearer water, in much more traditional Japanese surrounds.

In such a densely populated place where so many people live so closely and yet so harmoniously together, it’s a wonder that this reality extends into the water. Even with such crowds in the ocean, the waves can be ridden and shared. In the Shonan area, the aloha spirit of surfing is truly alive.

This story originally appeared in Metropolis magazine (www.metropolis.co.jp).