Grillogy Bar & Grill: The art of plating pleasures that sizzle

Overlooking the cinematic cityscape of Tokyo Bay, the Hilton Tokyo Odaiba is taking full advantage of this stunning waterfront as the backdrop to their latest restaurant: Grillogy Bar & Grill.

Upon entering the hotel’s grand lobby, it’s hard not to be mesmerized by the floor-to-ceiling windows that capture a sweeping view of the Rainbow Bridge — along with the iconic Tokyo Tower gleaming in the distance. But for restaurant-goers, a double dose of marvel awaits in the sleek dining space that samples old-school glamor with a contemporary flair.

Having just opened on Dec 31, Grillogy Bar & Grill is beaming with the fervor that accompanies any new establishment. From immaculate marble countertops of the open kitchen, svelte brass columns accentuating the monochromatic backsplash, to ethereal lighting fixtures enveloping the dining hall with a lustrous glow, it only requires one glimpse before reveling at the steakhouse’s refined interior scheme.

Designed to accommodate both intimate and large parties, a mix of granite dining tables and roomy leather booths meticulously line the spacious 70-seat eatery. Those with a penchant for alfresco dining can opt for the outdoor terrace, boasting 44 patio seats that showcase the Tokyo skyline shifting from day into night.

Add to this the attentive and personable wait staff along with the competent chefs and master mixologists — who exhibit their craft in the comfy corner bar — and you’ve got yourself a foolproof recipe for restaurant success.

However, it’s the culinary concept behind Grillogy, whose motto stands by serving food “at its simplest,” that takes center stage; the dishes speak for themselves, and say it all.

As its name implies, “Grillogy” equates to serious eats off the grill. After all, the suffix “-logy” denotes serious discipline in a particular field: or food, in this case. Surprisingly, though, was the artistic, at times whimsical, plating that illustrated sheer craftsmanship — despite having exited a sweltering kitchen.

Aiming to please all appetites, three four-course prix fixe dinners (priced at ¥6,000; ¥8,000; ¥11,000) offer a lot more than sizzling steaks: case in point, the Grilled Atlantic Salmon, Turbot with Yuzu Butter Sauce, and Canadian Lobster.

Moreover, each set may be supplemented with complementary wine that puts pairings of mundane red wine and meat to rest (two wines ¥2,800; three wines ¥3,800). On the contrary, I satiated my intrigue (and thirst) surrounding one of five signature cocktails dubbed the “GPSP” (Grilled Pineapple with Sparkling Wine; ¥1,500). The refreshing concoction — whose acronym rhymes with the viral hit “PPAP” — was my front-running drink of the night.

Equally tantalizing were two appetizers whose star ingredient wasn’t sourced from the land, but rather, the sea.

The Whisky Smoked Salmon (¥1,800) features near translucent slices of lox literally arranged upon a smoked-filled whisky bottle, which slowly released strings of aromatic vapor upon arriving at our table. A ring of diced strawberries — with a dollop of caviar in the center — adorns the elaborate hors d'oeuvres, accompanied by rich salmon rillettes crafted into a peachy pink “candy bar.”

Additionally, the ¥11,000 dinner set features an alternative seafood starter: Carpaccio of the Day from Tsukiji. The catch that evening was sea bream — brimming with the flavors of fresh ocean bounty. Drops of balsamic reduction dressed up the delicate dish, bearing a resemblance to an avant-garde painting conceived upon a ceramic canvas. The bold color exuding from the wasabi okra espuma (gastronomic jargon for foam) contrasted beautifully with seasonal greens sharing the plate.

The succeeding Scallops Grilled on a Cedar Plank (with sake rice risotto and grilled anago saltwater eel) was again a feast for the eyes, with the lightly scorched cedar plank imparting subtle hints of woodsy flavor (¥2,000). Creamy yet retaining the desirable “bite” of al dente, this intermediate course bursting with umami was nothing but delicious.

Nevertheless, at Grillogy, red meat reigns supreme. The two-kilogram Prime Japanese Tomahawk Steak (priced at a hefty ¥38,000) was a showstopper and embodied the restaurant’s “simple” philosophy to food: less is more, especially when it comes to seasoning and sizzling fresh cuts—or gargantuan chops!

Fit to feed six people, executive chef Masashi Mizuguchi invited me to witness how the amply-marbled meat gets executed to medium-rare perfection. After a handsome sprinkling of coarse salt and ground pepper, the monster steak momentously rides the flaming grill (fueled by fat drippings), acquiring sear marks to seal in the juices. About 45 minutes later, the succulent beauty is pulled from the broiler (bearing a browned exterior) and rustically plated on a plank.

With your choice of condiment (freshly-grated wasabi, horseradish, and yuzu) and cutlery (a debate between Laguiole or Japanese steak knives), Grillogy has got grilling and dining down to an art form.

Leaving room for dessert, I tucked into the Black Rice Pudding (¥1,200), a texturally diverse confection topped with green tea ice cream and a matcha crumble crust to match. The tasty complexity (smooth, crunchy, and glutinous all at once) was a conversation-stopper, no less a sweet finale to a cap a superb steakhouse meal.

Grillogy Bar & Grill Address: Hilton Tokyo Odaiba 2F, 1-9-1 Daiba, Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel: 03-5500-5580 Hours: Lunch Mon-Fri 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. (L.O. 2 p.m.); Sat-Sun & Holidays 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. (2 p.m.) Dinner 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. (L.O. 9:30 p.m.) Bar Sun-Thurs 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. (L.O. 10:30 p.m.); Fri-Sat 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. (12:30 a.m.) Closed: No fixed holiday Access: 1-minute walk from Daiba Station on the Yurikamome line Featured Menu: Prime Japanese Tomahawk Steak (¥38,000; 2 kg or 70 oz.)

Aside from à la carte options, three four-course dinner sets are available: priced ¥6,000; ¥8,000; ¥11,000.

© Japan Today